Natchez, Day Two

Day two in Natchez meant we were up and at 'em early for a brief walk and talk about downtown historic Natchez. Then it was off to the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians for a walking tour and remarks by James Barnett, Director of the Division of Historic Properties.

View of the mounds

The Natchez Indians inhabited what is now southwest Mississippi c. A.D 700-1730, with the culture at its zenith in the mid 1500s. The Grand Village was their main ceremonial center according to historical journals and archaeological evidence.

The 128 acre site features a museum, a reconstructed Natchez Indian house, and three ceremonial mounds. Two of the mounds, the Great Sun's Mound and the Temple Mound, have been excavated and rebuilt to their original sizes and shapes. A third mound, called the Abandoned Mound, has been only partially excavated and will be preserved intact, representing a sort of time capsule from the Natchez Indians' past.

Reconstructed House

After the Grand Village it was off to Glen Mary Plantation, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is a private home that has been in one family for generations. We had a picnic lunch here and short tour of the house.

Glen Mary Kitty

Glen Mary

After lunch we took a short ride on the Natchez Trace Parkway to Emerald Mound and Mount Locust.

Split Rail Fence

Mount Locust

Mount Locust is one of the oldest structures still standing in the Natchez area. An increasing number of boatmen known as "Kaintucks" were floating flatboats down the Mississippi river to sell their goods at the markets in Natchez and New Orleans. Without an efficient way to navigate up the Mississippi river, the boatmen walked north on the Natchez Trace to make their way home. A day's walk from Natchez brought the Kaintucks and their gold to Mt. Locust. The growing number of travelers forced the owners to turn their home into a "stand," which is nothing more than a crude inn. Mount Locust was home to five generations of Chamberlains with the last leaving in 1944. The park ranger who met us here is a Chamberlain and told some interesting family stories.

It was at Mount Locust that we talked about the first author on our tour, Eudora Welty. We read her short story "A Worn Path" remarking about Ms. Welty's use of place -- the Trace.

We had some free time before meeting for dinner at the King's Tavern which was built in the 1700s as an inn, a tavern, and a postal stop at the origin of the Natchez Trace. Dinner was delicious (again) -- salad, prime rib, stuffed baked potato, bread pudding. The Tavern resembles the block houses of American frontier days. Its timbers were hewn to size and fitted together with wooden pegs. All rooms have low ceilings and the windows and heavy doors have narrow frames. Several ghost stories are told about King's Tavern.

End of Day Two!

Natchez

We've been gone a few days visiting Natchez, Mississippi. We signed up for a Road Scholar program called "Natchez: Black and White and Read All Over" before Hurricane Ike visited us. The trip was paid for and we needed a break from tearing out dry wall, contractors and insurance agents - so we decided to go for it and we are glad we did. Natchez certainly took us back to a time most only read about. Have to admit, it was nice to come home to reality and our own bed!

We flew into Jackson, Mississippi on Southwest (they had the cheapest fares) and drove down the Natchez Trace to Natchez. We had been on the Trace Parkway before around Nashville and it was as beautiful as we had remembered. Two lane road (no shoulder) with a 50 mph speed limit. Most of the time we felt like we were the only ones on the road -- just us, nature and the wildlife (hawks, vultures, wild turkey and road kill). No billboards. No facilities (restaurants, gas stations).

The Trace was probably a series of hunters' paths that slowly came to form a trail from the Mississippi over the low hills into the valley of the Tennessee. By 1733 the French knew the land well enough to map it and showed an Indian trail running from Natchez to the northeast. By 1785 Ohio River Valley farmers searching for markets had begun floating their crops and products down the rivers to Natchez or New Orleans. Because they sold their flatboats for lumber, returning home meant either riding or walking. The trail from Natchez was the most direct. Started in the late 1930's, the modern Natchez Trace Parkway parallels the old trace. It was named an All-American Road in 1995.

We stopped several times along the Trace. This is the view from the top of Mangum Mound one of several Indian mounds found along the Trace.

Mangum Mound

This is the view across the Mississippi River into Vidalia (no relationship to the marvelous onions), Louisiana from our hotel room (Country Inn and Suites by Carlson).

The *steamboat* is a casino and has no engine.

The Road Scholar group met briefly for introductions and then we were off to Monmouth Plantation for dinner. Monmouth is on 26 landscaped acres and is listed as a National Historic Landmark Circa 1818. We didn't take any pictures because it was dark, but it was eye popping. The food on this trip was out of this world. Here it was hors d'oeuvres before dinner along with two mint juleps (yes, two). Dinner included salad, fresh baked bread, catfish with a crawfish etoufee over greens, chocolate mousse. Unfortunately, (or fortunately), we ate like this everyday. Thus ended day one. Day two tomorrow!

Armchair Traveling With Books

I admit that I'm an armchair traveler. I enjoyed traveling to Provence with Mayle's A Year In Provence. Not too long after, I traveled with Frances Mayes to Tuscany in Under the Tuscan Sun. My latest visit was to a place I've always wanted to visit - Morocco.


The Caliph's House: A Year In Casablanca by Tahir Shah continues the tradition set by Mayle and Mayes. Inspired by the Moroccan vacations of his childhood, Shah buys Dar Khalifa, a crumbling ruin of a mansion that once belonged to Casablanca's caliph, or spiritual leader. An empty house is thought to attract jinns, invisible spirits unique to the Islamic world. Shah copes with a new culture, the guardians of the house, repairs to the house, memories of his grandfather and his own growing family. I laughed. I was entranced. When I was finished, I wanted more of this exotic land . I was happy to read that In Arabian Nights: A Caravan of Moroccan Dreams, Shah continues his adventures in Morocco collecting a treasury of traditional stories. I have it on my wish list.


My guess is now you are going to say "WAIT! Still Life is not a travel book. It is a mystery. And, you'd be correct. is a mystery complete with murder and solution. It is also a visit to Three Pines, a small, magical village not too far from Montreal or the United States border. I can imagine sitting in front of a fire, eating, drinking cognac (and I don't like cognac), watching the villagers of Three Pines come and go. There is something about the place that is intoxicating. Even Dick enjoys reading the Three Pines books. He asked me today where the third Three Pines book was so he could start it. He's picky about his mysteries. It's not the mystery that draws him to these books by Penny -- it's the place. In Still Life, she introduces us to characters that we'll meet again and again in Three Pines: Chief Inspector Armand Gamache of the Surete du Quebec (a strong, charming, happy man); Clara Morrow and her husband, Peter (both artists); Myrna who runs the new and used bookstore; Gabri at the bed and breakfast; Ruth Zardo the poet and curmudgeon. Spending time with them is not dull and boring.

A Fatal Grace is the second in the Three Pines series followed by The Cruelest Month. We both think The Cruelest Month is the best of the bunch so far. The fourth Three Pines mystery will be out the first of the year. Another for the wish list.

Seattle, Part 3 With Lessons From the Grandson

This year we took the free bus into China Town and the International Center. Forgot that it was Monday and the Wing Luke Museum was closed. We did drop into Uwajimaya and I found some wonderful papers that I hope to use in collage. I have to say that Houston's Hong Kong City Market makes Uwajimaya look small.

Dragon In China Town

There are lots of lighthouses along the coast. This is the one at Alki Point.

Downtown Seattle and Pier 66 from our hotel room

Looks like Seattle and Houston have something in common -- building. Cranes everywhere.

This is one of my favorite pictures -- Seattle and Mt. Ranier from the Queen Anne District.

Double Rainbow

We were just back from Bainbridge Island, relaxing in our hotel room on Saturday afternoon watching the Mariners baseball game, when the announcer mentioned a rainbow over the field. We dashed out to the balcony and found a double rainbow. It was beautiful. I can't tell you how long it had been since we'd seen a rainbow, let alone a double one (squint to the right). One of nature's many miracles.

From the moment we checked into the hotel, there was solitary gull sitting not far from our balcony door. We didn't think much of it. We thought he/she was hanging around looking for a handout, just like the gulls in Galveston. The day after we saw the rainbow another one of Mother Nature's miracles appeared ... baby gulls. First, we saw one and then two and finally, the day before we left the smaller third baby (didn't get a picture of all three). We were delighted and had a great time watching this little family.

Babe

Finally, if you don't have a youngster in your life -- get one! If everyone could see the world through the eyes of a child, we'd be a much better planet. Here are a few of the lessons we were reminded of by THE grandson:

• Greet each day with a smile
• Live each day to the fullest
• Learn something new each day
• Don't be afraid to try something new
• Read
  
• Play
• Cranky? Take a nap.
• Eat when you are HUNGRY
• There may be a wonder right around the corner. Look for it.
  
• Hug
  
• Be sure your loved ones (friends, family, pets) know you are grateful for them. Don't be afraid to love.
  

Seattle, Part 2

Seattle has a wonderful new sculpture garden called the Olympic Sculpture Park. It opened last year. We walked the park last year and didn't get a chance to visit again this year. We did drive by several times and this is one of my favorite sculptures. You can visit the park by going to the Seattle Art Museum web site.


This is the view from in front of the Seattle Asian Art Museum. I love this picture taken of the space needle through this large sculpture. The Asian Art Museum is in Volunteer Park and was the original art museum building.


This is the front of the Seattle Asian Art Museum and if you squint you can see me walking down the stairs just left of center. This was our first stop during this trip. Family members played in the park while I "worked". I try to check out museums and their Asian Art collections for the Asian curatorial staff I work with. SAAM had a Korean contemporary art exhibition and some other Asian contemporary art that I was especially interested in. Now, I just have to write up my notes!


We stay at a hotel on the Seattle waterfront and this picture of the sailboat and ferry was taken from our room. We try to be good family guests and keep everyone on their regular schedules as much as possible. We also think everyone needs "personal" time. While THE grandson naps, we get the "adult" play in. By the end of the stay, we are napping when THE grandson naps.


We watched the cruise ships dock and reload Friday, Saturday and Sunday -- a total of 9 each weekend. Amazing to watch the people unload and then new passengers come aboard. We watched the trucks pull up to deliver all the food and various goods that the new cruise will need. It looked like a well choreographed dance -- trucks, people -- full flats of goods going on, empty flats coming off. The Argosy is a small ship that gives harbor, jazz and lock cruises. Both ships are on their way out of port.

This is one of THE grandson's favorite things to do -- take the ferry over to Bainbridge Island. This is a picture from the ferry on the return trip to Seattle.

I still have a few more pictures to share. Look for Seattle, Part 3!

Seattle

We've just returned from our annual visit with family and THE grandson in Seattle. I have lots of pictures to share. Seattle is a wonderful place to visit -- easy walking city (once you climb the hills) and cool (great break from the high summer temperatures in Houston). Before I share the trip, a big thank you to those of you who have dropped by and left comments or sent emails. I hope you'll continue to visit and keep up with the Tales from Twisty Lane.

I love Pike Place Market. They are celebrating their 101st birthday this year. The Dahlias were beautiful. I have a brown thumb when I try growing them here. I did get them to come up this year (put them in pots) and got one bloom.

Seattle Aquarium

We spent a morning at the Seattle Aquarium. Our little man knew exactly what he wanted to see and was off and running the minute we were in the door.

Fremont Troll

The Fremont Troll gives new meaning to mixed-media! This large, fearsome troll devours an actual Volkswagen underneath the Aurora Bridge. It weighs 2 tons and sports one good eye made of a hubcap. The Troll is a must stop for tour groups. We were lucky to get this picture without people climbing all over him.

Kids can play in the cave, too!

A Big Lion Roar

At The Zoo

This was our first visit to the Woodland Park Zoo with THE grandson. He knew just what he wanted to see and do. He wasn't sure about riding the horse on the carousel and had Gramps move to a seat that didn't go up and down.

We ate in kid friendly restaurants: Buca Di Beppo (a national chain), the Coastal Kitchen on Capitol Hill (always busy no matter time of day and serves breakfast all day). We did get a few adult meals in. The kids took us to Salty's on Alki Beach for Dick's official retirement dinner. Great view of the Seattle skyline from Salty's and good food. A visit to Seattle means wild salmon and halibut. Yum! Dick and I had dinner at Ivar's (halibut) our first night in Seattle and a nice lunch one afternoon at Maximilien In The Market (more salmon).

I have more pictures and will post more tomorrow. I'm still catching up on laundry, mail -- all those little things that pile up while we were away having fun!